Chocolate Tasting Meditation ™
CTM
  • Home
    • About
    • Contact
  • Chocolate Tasting Meditation™
  • New Chocolate Tasting Meditations
  • R. M. Peluso Riffs on Chocolate
    • Store
    • Chocolate Weddings

R. M. Peluso 
Riffs on Chocolate

​

Whisky Flavored Chocolate, part 2,

1/20/2019

0 Comments

 
Picture

In a previous blog posting (10/30/16), I wrote about chocolate makers who were using nibs aged in whisky (Bourbon) barrels and as flavoring in caramels. Since then I've encountered more chocolate makers producing whisky-inspired bars and bonbons. In these later tastings, Scotch was used rather than Bourbon. Zotter of Austria produces a dark milk bar which contains a peated Scotch caramel filling that is quite pleasing, but rather subdued. It is suitable even for consumers who may not like Scotch. But for a heady aromatic experience of peated Scotch, Chocolate Tree's 70% dark Whisky with Nibs bar really satisfies.

Scottish chocolate maker Alastair Gower soaks Marañon nibs in a peated Islay whisky and sets these crunchy wonders in a bar made from the same beans. Gower says that the alcohol is lost in the process, so don't look for a buzz beyond the sensory delights of aroma, taste and texture. A great Islay classic would not have been my first choice for treating nibs because it has medicinal and marine notes. There are peated whiskies that don't, so I might have recommended Connemara, for example. But the medicinal and island notes don't really show up in this bar. instead, the rich smoky aspects pour from the bar as it does from a dram.
​
​If you are a fan of smoky peated Scotch, you will like this bar. Chocolate Tree also produces a caramel bonbon (praline) with a non-peated Scotch inclusion. The ultra-soft caramel center is a miracle of liquid suspension, a thick nectar sipping consistency. The Highland (Speyside) Scotch flavor is true, full and satisfying. Gower was fully transparent with me about the sources of his whisky. But unless the chocolate maker discloses on line, I won't name names. The reason is many whisky producers enter into non-disclosure agreements with those who simply age and/or bottle the "juice" their spirit and sell it under another label. Unless I hear otherwise, I will assume the same agreements may be in effect with chocolate makers.

Also from the UK is Hotel Chocolat. And they just opened a shop in NYC! A British chocolate maker that grows their cacao in St. Lucia, HC has a delightful range of spirit filled bonbons, not just whisky. They don't publish the source of their liquor. Even though I may discover their source, it's not my place to disclose.


Picture

I tasted their gin bonbons and liked them, even though I'm not a gin drinker. They also make bonbons filled with red wine, cognac, rum, beer and champagne. The moment I opened their package of six whisky truffles, the aroma of whisky poured from the celophane. The shell is a (dark?) milk chocolate (cacao percentage unknown) with a creamy ganache (center). The whisky flavor is gratifyingly bold and true. The package says the whisky has been aged 10 years, but the website says 12 years. Possibly, HC changed whiskies. My guess is the whisky is an unpeated Speysider. It doesn't appear to be sherry-finished. I was also able to obtain a sample of their plain 70% dark coverture bar and look forward to pairing it with other whiskies and cheese for Whisky Magazine.

Transparency is no problem for Michael Donegan of Kilbeggan Chocolate in the Republic of Ireland. Donegan partners with several whiskey makers and produces chocolate for them. I had the pleasure of sampling his Kilbeggan Distillery (Bean Suntory) truffles and bars and quite liked them. He uses Ecuadorian beans that features a roasted profile. This profile can work with a variety of whiskies. ​
​

Picture
0 Comments

Chocolate...Not Just Dessert Anymore

12/21/2018

0 Comments

 
Chocolate began life as an unsweetened Mesoamerican drink, a savory, a spice. Occasionally, it was mixed with honey, but more often, corn flour and chilies. Sweet chocolate was a European innovation following the introduction of sugar cane, plantations, and the tragedy of slavery. Sweet chocolate drinks were sipped surreptitiously by creole church ladies of New Spain and exported to the monasteries and courts of Europe. Wherever Spain ruled, cacao and chocolate soon followed. It was traded widely. Before coffee, hot, sweet chocolate rivaled tea in the colonies of Northern America. But cocoa often found its way into recipes, and not just desserts. A fan of Mexican cuisine, I was always aware of cocoa or chocolate as a savory. I lapped up Mole sauce at any opportunity. Even sweetened chocolate, preferably     with cacao content in excess of 70%, can bring excitement and hearty nutrition to appetizers and main courses. 

For the past year, I've taken the pairing of chocolate and whiskey that inspired my book Deep Tasting Chocolate & Whiskey to the readers of Whisky Magazine and expanded the concept. My recurring column is about quick and easy, modern entertaining and features triads that include cheese as well as chocolate and whiskey. These triads can be pulled together with a minimum of smart shopping––you just have to know a world class cheese monger, a well curated chocolate online or brick and mortar store, and a reliable liquor store. Add a good green grocer for fresh fruit and a vendor of whole grain breads. Then slice and serve!   Instant party. 

Invite your whiskey-loving friends over and pour them a dram. Serve the chocolate with the bread and cheese, side by side, or melted on toast as a sandwich. If you scroll down to previous posts, you'll find many pleasing pairings and triads. Here's another one featuring all Hudson Valley, New York ingredients. 

Try: 
Hillrock Double Cask Rye Whiskey with Fruition Chocolate Heirloom Costa Rica 74% and Cochran Farm St. Johnsville Goat Cheese.

Serve with a whole grain or sourdough by Bread Alone bakers. Maybe you didn't know that New York produces more varieties of apples than anywhere in the country. True! Finish with apples grown right here in the Hudson Valley and send everyone home satiated and superbly nourished.  

Let's get over the notion that chocolate is just for dessert. Dark chocolate bars are palate-opening appetizers. They're also stunning with a main course. When it comes to dessert, think chocolate cake, chocolate mousse, even milk chocolate. Oh, yes! Apples, too.



0 Comments

Whisky, Chocolate & Cheese Triads with Allergies

8/31/2018

0 Comments

 

Decades ago, a sudden onset of allergies to the sulfites in wine slammed the brake on any serious relationship I had with that beverage. Years later, when I first nosed my way into whisky, the prospect of sherry cask finishing gave me pause. In the United States, any food or drink containing more than 10 parts per million must list sulfites on the label. The European Union and the United Kingdom have similar regulations. So I checked the labels. Finding no warnings on sherry-finished whisky bottles gave me the courage to try. I swallowed an alcohol compatible anti-histamine, kept my adrenaline pen at the ready, tasted, spat, and actually swallowed one sip. I survived! But you already know that.

About 10% of the population may be allergic to sulfites. A similar percentage of the population report allergies to penicillin, and that brings us to cheese. Penicillium candidum or camemberti, found in brie and many soft cheeses, and Penicillium roqueforti and glaucum, found in blue cheeses, are not the same strain as the antibiotic form--Penicillium chrysogenum. The antibiotic is made with an extract, not the whole form as used in cheese. Many people who are allergic to the medication are able to consume these cheeses without difficulty. But not everyone! Some people will indeed react to these cheeses with symptoms ranging from mild rashes or hives to life-threatening anaphylaxis.

Food writers seldom suggest alternative ingredients for well known allergens. I can’t offer an alternative for chocolate. Trust me, there is none. But with respect to cheese, I decided to search out substitutions for the blues, tasting my way through various groups of non-blues made in Britain, France, Denmark, Holland and Switzerland, only to end up in Italy. Why is it important to find a substitute for blue cheese? Because peated whiskies tend to pair best with the blues.Given the number of peated whiskies and their fans, I couldn't just leave these spirits unmatched. My search turned up two northern Italian cheeses that are most compatible with the peated. They are both unpasteurized varieties. One is semi-soft, the other hard. And they are well-aged. I can’t stress the aged aspect strongly enough.


Here are the ones to buy:


Fontina (PDO) Valle d’Aosta (Val d’Aosta in the USA) is semi-soft, made from the raw milk of grass-fed cows in the Piedmont region. The cheese should be aged 6-9 months, minimally. The texture is almost gummy. Of the two cheeses, this melts more easily, if you wish to serve it on bread or toast. Easy does it, though. Even in my old microwave, 10 seconds suffice. 

Asiago (PDO) d’Allevo (Vecchio or Stravecchio) is a hard cheese that originates in the Veneto or Trentino regions, made from the raw milk of cows grazed on a high alpine plateau. Look for one that is aged more than 10 months (vecchio) or 15 months (stravecchio). The texture is somewhat crumbly. It is best cut into cubes. 


PDO means the name has origin-designated protection similar to use of the terms “scotch” or “bourbon.” Make sure to get to know and buy from reliable, knowledgeable cheese mongers who sell the highest quality imported cheeses. Yes, it will cost more, but it’s worth it. In New York, the cheese mongers at Zabar’s or Murray’s will let you taste before you buy. To be sure the cheeses are the real deal and not cheap knock-offs, look for the consortium stamp on the outside of the cheese wheel, or ask the seller to check. Don’t settle for the younger, pasteurized-type Fontina or Asiago— they are too mild to hold their own when matched to a peated whisky.


Here are some tasting notes for the cheeses:


Fontina
Nose: earthy, mushroom, smoke
Palate: cream, sometimes fruity, truffle undernotes
Finish: cream of mushroom and white pepper


Asiago
Nose: toast and savory caramelized butter
Palate: sharp, tangy and slightly spicy
Finish: saline and tangy


Add whisky:

Lagavulin 16 & Fontina
The cheese amps the peat, and the whisky pops the mushroom bottom of the cheese. Add a baguette or sourdough bread to bridge the two. If you like peat, you’ll enjoy the direction of the duo.


Lagavulin 16 & Asiago
Very good together. Balanced. Whole grain or spelt bread bridge works here.


Lagavulin 16 is a widely-owned, classic peated whisky, but Ardbeg 10 worked well with both cheeses too. When matching to cheese, compatibility comes down more to the strength of the peat and, surprisingly, less than whether it has the marine or medicinal notes. I tried whiskies that source their peat from regions other than Islay. The American Single Malt by Kings County Distillers (USA) uses peat from the Highlands. The effect is gentle. Connemara Peated Irish Whiskey is more heavily peated than the Kings County, but also lacks marine notes. Both the Kings County and the Connemara worked well with the Fontina and the Asiago. So start with your favorite peated whisky. Experiment!


Add chocolate (although, you should probably taste the chocolate first. I always do!):


In general, what works with peated whiskies is a dark chocolate that has some spice notes in its profile. Here are my picks:


Marou (Vietnam) Tien Giang Dark Chocolate 70%
with Fontina & Lagavulin 16
Bold balance of brown fruit and spice respect all that the whisky and cheese bring to the experience.


Pump Street Bakery (UK) Madagascar Dark Milk Chocolate 58% with Asiago & Ardbeg 10
If you’re a die-hard milk chocolate fan, try this dark one. The usual citrus notes found in a Madagascar are sufficiently off set by the milk, enabling it to work with the cheese and this peated whisky.


Pump Street Bakery (UK) Honduras 80% with Asiago & Lagavulin 16
High octane cacao with winey fruit, smoky molasses and spice notes stands up to the power of the whisky and the cheese.


Fruition Hispaniola (USA) 68% has just enough spice, fruit and extra sweetness to work with almost any peated whisky. Try it!

ALTERNATIVES FOR BRIE, CAMEMBERT AND SOFT CHEESES

Brie-type cheeses tend to go well with young single malts and blended grain whiskies, aged in bourbon casks, according to Martine Nouet. As for pairing with chocolate, it all depends. Bries can vary as to sharpness as well as flavor notes, so finding the right whiskies and chocolates will take some experimentation. That may be the least of your challenges. Why?The molds most used to produce the typical bloomy rinds and soft centered cheeses are Penicillum Camemberti and Penicillum Candidum. They are prevalent, not only in brie and camembert, but also in many goat cheeses. You may think that if you are allergic to these white molds that you can never enjoy a soft cheese, but I have good news. There are a number of delicious cheeses that use Geotrichum Candidum instead. The cheeses may be buttery like bries with a rind of a brainy or cauliflower appearance. They tend to be sweeter, less acidic, and more delicate than the cheeses made with the penicillum molds. Geotrichum is a yeast that occurs in nature. It may be used in addition to, or instead of, Penicillum. Of course, if you're allergic, you will want to find cheeses that use the Geotrichum exclusively. One caveat, however, for those who have had severe allergic reactions to penicillin as an antibiotic or cheese. Be aware that many cave-aged cheeses are housed in close proximity with other cheeses. Unless the cave is careful to separate cheeses with varying molds, a geotrichum cheese may still attract a small amount of other molds in the environment. Also if you have a compromised immune system or are on immune-suppressant medications, geotrichum cheeses may not be for you. I am not an expert in this area, so I advise you to research Geotrichosis and discuss it with your doctor.


One French cheese available in the States is Saint Nuage. This geotrichum cheese is rather in a category of it's own. It's a triple-cream made from cow milk. The aroma is hay and pleasantly animally, not as strong as a goat cheese and not blatantly barnyard.On the palate, there's a fleeting lemony impression. In terms of texture, the rind is buttery but the paste is more like cheese cake, with a hint of grainy texture. It's more delicate and sweeter than brie, with a slight acidity to the finish. Try it with a young spirit, like Westland American Single Malt or others with roast flavors. American single malts tend to have higher alcohol content than Scottish counterparts, so I was surprised that the Westland, at 46 ABV, didn't just crush the hell out of the Nuage. Saved by the cream, I guess. Akesson's Chocolate, Criollo Madagascar 75% completed these two as a trio, if you're so inclined.

An American soft, brie-type cheese I've been enjoying lately is Cremont by Vermont Creamery. It's made with cow and goat milks. And it's delightful! Its delicate buttery flavors require a lower alcohol proof whisky companion. I suggest a gentle single malt or blend with orchard fruit—fresh apple or pear— flavor notes. I haven't tried them together, but Dewers Blended Scotch Whisky (white label) comes to mind. I'd also try Brenne aged in cognac casks. Teeling Blended Irish Whiskey aged in rum casks worked nicely. The Speyside single malt Balvenie Double Wood 12 year opened up fruity notes, particularly some apricot. Chocolates that triad well are ones that have a substantial fruit and floral profile component, such as Charm School Belize 70% or Pump Street Grenada 70%.

Another geotrichum American-made soft cheese is St. Johnsville Jr. by Cochran Farms, a Hudson Valley creamery. This cheese is all goat and is a great substitute for Boucheron-type logs. It's stronger than the Cremont and stands up to single malts such as Glenlivet 12. As for teaming up with chocolate, look for one with a roast profile–nuts and delicate cocoa notes. The necessary classic "chocolatey" backbone can be found in Dandelion's Mantuano 70%.

​

Slainte...cheers...enjoy!​

(C) copyright 2018 by R. M. Peluso.

0 Comments

Pairings and Triads with Whisky, Chocolate & Cheese

7/16/2018

0 Comments

 


Researching chocolate compatibilities with whisky and other foods has meant knocking on many literary and actual doors. Since publishing my book Deep Tasting Chocolate & Whiskey, I've had the privilege to write for Whisky Magazine (UK) and, along the way, was delighted to encounter the writings of Martine Nouet, a leader in pairing food and whisky for over 20 years. A prolific writer in her native French, fortunately, Ms. Nouet's book `A Table: Whisky from Glass to Plate is available in English. Her insights and basic principles are gems. Take her concept of a food bridge. A bridge food uses the texture or flavor of one food to facilitate a favorable interaction between two others. The result is a gustatory triad. Ms. Nouet and I share a regard for specificity. In other words, the exact brand and expression of a whisky matter when attempting to pair. In my experience, it’s the same when attempting to pair chocolate, cheese, or anything else.


Ms. Nouet spent decades experimenting. Meanwhile, a quiet revolution has been going on in food science. Flavor specialists and molecular gastronomists have been busy deriving formulae for successful pairing. One idea that has shown promise is “molecular rhyming,” that is, pairing foods that share molecular compounds. There are websites, such as the subscriber-based foodpairing.com, co-founded by Bernard Lahousse, Peter Coucquyt, and John Langerbich, and IBM’s Chef Watson :https://ibmchefwatson.com. Among several books on the topic is the latest, The Flavor Matrix: The Art and Science of Pairing Common Ingredients to Create Extraordinary Dishes, by James Briscione of New York’s Institute of Culinary Education and wife Brooke Parkhurst. Contrary to the use of the word “pairing,” the focus is actually enabling home cooks and chefs who want to combine ingredients to create novel dishes rather than simple pairings as ends in themselves. Dining versus tastings. As far as whisky is concerned, both foodpairing.com and Chef Watson lead in including broad categories of whisky. But that’s also their limitation. They do not list specific brands nor distinguish between their expressions. Their databases are more advanced in descriptions of beer and cheese brands than whisky or chocolate, which are, in reality, presented as generic ingredients. Ms. Nouet’s recommendation to consider whisky as a spice when using it as a cooking ingredient is consistent with that approach.


When it comes to tasting two or three individual items, pairing is a matter of subtlety and nuance. Just as the flavor profiles of whisky brands and expressions, chocolate cannot always be reduced to the broad industrial categories of dark, milk and white. Fine chocolate is more than “chocolatey”; it contains complex aromatic and flavor notes, and those flavor profiles must be considered carefully when pairing. The science-based data bases referenced above are simply not yet specific enough.

It’s essential to describe complex flavor profiles when working with artisan or craft chocolate in the context of pairing only two or three items. We need to tease out and appreciate the full spectrum of flavors and textures available to us. This need for specificity extends also to cheese, as I’ve been finding out. A Gouda aged 1-2 years is an entirely different animal than a Gouda aged 4 years. A raw farm house cheddar that whispers barnyard is a world away from the sublime notes of the Dorset's Coastal Cheddar ® or even an unpasteurized (raw milk) cheddar like Montgomery's (also UK). These cheeses will pair with whisky in an entirely different maner too.


Whisky, chocolate, cheese. When I recommend any of these, I know I need to be as specific as possible. So start with a great whisky, then locate a reliable cheese monger and a purveyor of fine, craft (artisan) bean-to-bar chocolate bars or the chocolate-maker's online store.


Let’s try some pairings and triads.


Whisky
Redbreast 12 year (Ireland) with its rich, sherry-endowed dried fruit notes
pairs beautifully with….


Cheese
Coastal Cheddar ® (Dorchester, England), aged a minimum of 15 months. It has a nutty and floral nose and a fruity, buttery palate. In a word–superb.


Chocolate
Castronovo (Florida, USA), Sierra Nevada (Columbia) 72%. The profile is fruit and forest.
or, easier to find in the UK–
Akesson’s, Brazil, Fazenda Sempre Firme, 75%. Earthy roast characteristics brings out oak and spice notes in the whisky, then balance the triad completed by the cheese.


——————--
Whiskey
Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select Kentucky Straight Bourbon. The significant rye presence in the mash bill wins this year’s Kentucky Derby. It goes well with another winner…

Cheese
Prairie Breeze™ (Iowa, USA). A “Cheddar-type” cheese aged a minimum of 9 months has garnered international awards in the Cheddar category. It has a fresh-lemony and slightly nutty nose. As soon as your teeth sink in, it explodes with depth, cream crumble and perfect salinity.


Chocolate
Creo Chocolate (Oregon, USA), Heirloom Hacienda Li´mon (Ecuador) 73%. A delightfully rich mouthfeel with an earth, fruit and honey-caramel profile
—————————-
Whisky
Westland Peated American Single Malt Whiskey (Washington, USA). Peat in the nose along with orange zest, spice and malt. Herbal palate and roast notes. Cinnamon and smoke finish. But let it breathe a long while and chocolate notes hit you in the face. One great innovator deserves another two …


Cheeses
Bay Blue (California, USA). With caramel in the nose, and dark chocolate on the palate, it’s fudgy mouthfeel still finishes blue.


Chocolate
Fruition Hispaniola 68%,batch 23 (New York, USA) The fruit and spice profile complements the chocolate notes in the Westland perfectly.


———--
or go for a Scottish peated option with…


Whisky
Ardbeg Peated Single Malt Scotch Whisky 10 year. Peaty and malty, of course, roasted notes, coffee, chocolate and smokey finish.


Cheese
Colson Bassett Stilton PDO (England). Milk chocolate and butter nose, peanuts and chocolate that bites back. Firm, butter mouthfeel.


Chocolate
Marou (Vietnam)Tien Giang 80%. Spice profile with the power to stand up to any Islay peated. If you prefer a chocolate with less muscle, try the Marou Tien Giang 70%

ALLERGIES ANYONE? Check out my next blog on alternatives for cheese allergies.


(C) copyright 2018 by R. M. Peluso.











0 Comments

R. M. Peluso Class at DC Chocolate Festival...Sold Out

5/14/2018

0 Comments

 
R.M. Peluso spoke to a filled-to-capacity crowd at her Chocolate & Whiskey tasting class at the DC Chocolate Festival on April 28, 2018. Among the many participants was the legendary cacao specialist Ray Majors.
​“ It was a thrill to finally meet Ray, “ R.M. said.
The participants greatly enjoyed learning about the origins of flavor in both whiskey and chocolate as well as the perception of flavor. Dr. Peluso led the group through tasting the whiskeys and paired chocolate.
Picture


​Book sales for both her first book and the latest, both pictured here, exceeded expectation.
​
Looking for a signed special edition of Deep Tasting Chocolate & Whiskey? Festival organizer, Marisol Slater, of The Chocolate House (DuPont Circle) now has a few at her shop for those who didn’t get a chance to purchase them at the show.
​
Thanks to chocolate makers Fruition, Potomac, Charm School and Castronovo.

(C) copyright 2018, all rights reserved

0 Comments

St. Patrick's Day Pairings of Irish Whiskey and Chocolate

3/1/2018

0 Comments

 
When you think St. Patrick's Day, think chocolate...and whiskey!

We need a new chocolate holiday between Valentine's Day and Easter to off-set those lean, melty days of summer. I know chocolatiers are already up to their elbows crafting chocolate bunnies and eggs. Easter lends itself to exquisite chocolate creations. Increasingly, Passover does too. Still, I think we can make St. Pat's far sweeter and richer.

​During the famine in the mid 1800s, some 2 million people emigrated from Ireland. Huge numbers settled in New York–okay, Boston, Chicago, and lots of other places, too. But we've also seen large numbers of Irish arriving in the 1920s, 50s, and in New York in the last few decades, part of the brain-drain before Ireland re-invented itself with technology and pharmaceuticals, and so on. There are over 200 communities in the USA alone that mark St. Patrick's Day with parades and various celebrations. In New York City, we say that everyone is Irish on St. Patrick's Day. Everyone wears green. Almost everyone. That's due to the enormous influence of the Irish on our city.

If you're going to sip some whiskey on St. Paddy's Day, then surely think about pairing it with chocolate. Here are my recommendations for a holiday, people and cultural influence worth toasting.

In my book Deep Tasting Chocolate & Whiskey, you'll find some fabulous pairings for Teeling Small Batch Irish Whiskey, Connemara Peated Single Malt Irish Whiskey, and even the ever popular Jameson Blended Irish Whiskey. I confess to being very fond of Connemara Original Peated Single Malt Irish Whiskey. The Connemara is much easier to pair with chocolate and other foods than the heavily marine-endowed Islay whiskies.


Let me share with you a few whiskeys that didn't make it into my book.
​
Picture
Writer's Tears Copper Pot Single Malt 

​As a writer, the name of this distiller captivated me. That's because I love the unique way the Irish use language–so colorfully, inventively, playfully. I spent a couple of days in Dublin at a young, impressionable age, and it totally opened my ears. It's no wonder so many great writers of English hail from Ireland. 

Writer's Tears is difficult to find on the shelves, but if you ask a good wine and liquor store to order it for you, it is obtainable. And it is highly affordable. Typical of Irish whiskey, it is triple distilled, then aged in ex-bourbon barrels. As of this writing, this is the only expression available in the States. But I've heard that there are plans to begin exporting their sherry-aged Red Head expression to the States soon.  Can't wait to try it.


Tasting Notes:

Nose: apple, vanilla, honey ginger and malt

Palate ginger and spice, butterscotch, toasted oak:

Finish:long, "subtle milk chocolate"

​Pair it with:

Dandelion Chocolate, Mantuano, Venezuela 70%: has earthy, roast notes of espresso and almond. With Writer's Tears, goes rich and quasi-mahogony wood

Castronovo, Honduras, the Lost City, 72%: Takes the chocolate's earthy, roast, cinnamon, brown fruit, banana and almond even richer.




Picture
Redbreast 12 Year Single Pot Still Irish Whisky

An extraordinary value. Go ahead, compare it to any  Scottish counterpart. If you're looking for a sherried whiskey, begin here. Redbreast 12 Year's rich aromas won me over with my first whiff. It's complexity,  smoothness and finish made me come back again. The 12 year is available at cask strength, but at 40 abv, this version is amazingly generous with those Oloroso sherry cask-endowed dried fruit notes. In addition to the distiller's description of the so-called Christmas cake attributes, I delighted in dried apricot notes.    

Testing Notes:

Nose: sherry, malt, orange marmalade, dried apricots, "sultanas" and figs

Palate:creamy, spices, fruity, sherry, and wood notes

Finish: long with sustained flavor

Pair it with:

Castronovo, Sierra Nevada, Columbia 72%: SN's fruitiness turns smoky, molasses and prune jam. In combination, the sweetness is reduced for both.

Arete', Brazil, Fazenda Camboa, 70%: has fruit and nut notes. The Redbreast brings out the nuttiness (Brazil, Hazelnut).

0 Comments

Update on my latest book

3/1/2018

0 Comments

 
Since the release of Deep Tasting Chocolate & Whiskey, in November, I've been interiewed for podcasts by Lauren Heineck of WKND Chocolate (wkndchocolate.com, podcast #18) and Mark Gillespie of Whiskycast.com (episode #680, February 11) for Valentine's Day. Canadian whisky expert, Davin de Kergommeaux, author of Canadian Whisky: the New Portable Expert, graciously mentioned my book in an op ed for Whisky Magazine, #149. A review of my book appeared on the website Bourbon & Banter (bourbonbanter.com) and journalist Simran Sethi quoted me in an article about whisky and chocolate. Whisky Magazine invited me to write an article on pairing chocolate with whisky in which I’ve issued a challenge to pair it with other foods too. I’ve begun a data base to record and analyze those parings. The Whisky Magazine article should be out in mid April. I'll be breaking more news as it happens. Check back.
0 Comments

Wood It Matter?

12/21/2017

0 Comments

 
When it comes to whiskey, it is said that anywhere from 60-80% of the flavor comes from the wood in which it is aged.
What about chocolate?
Cacao beans spend approximately a week or less fermenting in wood. Like whiskey, ethanol and many other compounds are produced. With respect to whiskey, oxygenation occurs. The wood breathes, in, out, and with it, the young whiskey is absorbed and released with tannins and compounds, such as vanillin, picked up from the wood. The whiskey may also breathe in other environmental aromas, such as salt air. Whiskey spends a long time in wood—years. Chocolate does not. So, does the wood matter?
The best wood for initial aging of whiskey is oak, with American white oak popularly used due to the tightness of the grain which prevent leaks and the lovely flavor notes it imparts to the whiskey.
‘But in what kind of wood do we ferment cacao? From the responses given to my first inquiries, it seems to vary from region to region. If the wood interacts in such a way as to influence the flavor of the cacao, it would be helpful to describe the nature of the aroma compounds that are produced and to quantify the degree that it occurs.
Researchers, please step forward!

Post Script: Remember To'ak from my last blog?Turns out they've been doing interesting experiments and are producing chocolate nibs aged in various whisky, cognac and other casks. Now they've got my attention!



0 Comments

Hype By Any Other Name...

2/13/2017

0 Comments

 
Picture
How much would you pay for a chocolate bar or a bottle of whiskey? $260.-315.US for 1.5 ounces of chocolate? From $400. to $5000. per bottle of whiskey? What is going on here?And more importantly, should you consider shelling out for these products?

The price-tag of To'ak Chocolate was scandalous enough in 2014 to launch a successful publicity campaign and a flurry of debate within chocolate circles. I looked at the website–very nice– their packaging (see photo)–wood tongs and box made of the same Spanish Elm used during fermentation--okay, conveys a certain attention to detail, still, it screamed HYPE to me.


Produced in Ecuador, the company called the beans "Nacional," but the genetics actually revealed a hybrid. No surprise to anyone who knows the history of Arriba cacao in Ecuador The C-spot rated the To'ak an 8.51 (on a scale of 1-10) and awarded the cumulative with only 3-1/2 stars. Personally, I thought the C-spot had been extremely kind when later I had been able to taste a sample of the 81% for free as a staff reviewer. When I heard To'ak had been awarded heirloom status, I wondered whether someone had been paid-off. But I've been assured there had been no corruption involved. Apparently, with expert handling and a significant amount of sugar (down to 68% cacao), the Heritage Cacao Preservation Initiative produced samples that were indeed worth premium prices. But what is the value of a premium-priced bar? The very best, small batch (1000 bars?) artisan chocolate is priced under $25 for approximately 1.5- 2.5 ounces. In fact, artisan bars vary widely from about $8.99 to $15 for most that are domestically produced. Now, to be fair, To'ak's batch size was only a few hundred bars. Anything produced on so small a scale as to be considered rare, certainly, merits higher prices. But there's a difference between what a producer must charge to make their efforts financially worthwhile and what is realistic to expect consumers to bear. Throw in the fancy-shmancy wood box and tongs, okay--still, come on...

Here's the question that gets to the heart of the matter: Take me, a total chocolate fanatic, who easily plunks down top dollar for quality chocolate, and has to try every bar out there, would I ever pay for a bar of To'ak? No, I would not.

That brings us to the runaway train of inflation in the American whiskey market. To be fair, it's not just American spirits; world whiskies, particularly Scotch and Japanese, have risen astronomically too. But how do you separate value from hype? Well, you have to educate your palate and learn to trust your instincts.

Recently, I've been working on my next book which, I hope, will enable you to do just that, and more. It's about pairing chocolate and spirits. Pairing has become a big area of interest in the last few years–pairing with wine, with beer, with cheese, with your Uncle Tony...

I'm not big on pairing, preferring to focus on one single piece of dark chocolate at a time, and savoring mindfully. Really, isn't a great piece of chocolate enough! If you're really, really tasting it? And personally, I approach whisky the same way–straight, or "neat." I'm just not a cocktail kinda gal. Though cocktails maybe fashionable again, I'm not. But since people are doing this pairing thing, I felt, strictly speaking as a flavor maven, a certain responsibility to help people who are intrigued with pairing, to do it in a way that makes sense and will empower them with the tools to make good choices on their own. Most books, whether on spirits or chocolate, simply throw out a few examples of pairings, then turn you loose on the local merchants. My forthcoming book, working title–The Deep Tasting Guide™To Pairing Chocolate and Whiskey–will present a system for optimal pairing. Hopefully, just as was the goal of my first book, after reading my next, you will be able to trust your own senses and not be bamboozled.

In the process of researching the pairing book, I've had to taste a lot of whisky/whiskey. Think crash course: readings, tastings, purchasing, sweeping drams ordered in bars into my hip flask and stealing off into the night, almost every night. Because if you're going to pair anything, you need to thoroughly know both components. This is the problem with a lot of wine and spirits books already on the bookshelves: They really don't know their chocolate!
I was just discussing this just the other day with the delightful chocolate and wine sommelier, Roxanne Browning. So, yes, I've had to taste a lot of whisky--Scotch, Japanese, Taiwanese, Canadian, French, and whiskey–American bourbon, rye, wheat whiskey, and so on.

Now, I must stress the word "taste" rather than drink. I'm not really a drinker. Truly, I'm not. In fact, I'm sober to such an excessive degree that my resolution for Lent is to give up sobriety. And I'm not doing so well. When working with spirits in my kitchen lab, I usually ingest less than an ounce, probably less than a half ounce. It's a prolonged and repetitive "nosing," then a sip or two. If I'm attending a tasting, I generally don't swallow more than a sip or two there either, and generally only if the whisky is exceptional. I confess to spitting.(They're getting used to me.) But though it may come as a shock to liquor store customers, that's what the master distillers do, so...

I don't like feeling even mildly buzzed. I meditate or exercise when stressed. If you're drinking or eating chocolate to solve stress issues or to anesthetize, let's face it–that's self-medicating. My experience of chocolate, and now spirits, is about actively engaging the senses and savoring. It's about feeling more, not less. So my approach to combining chocolate and spirits is about fully experiencing both, individually and together. A successful match for me is not a matter of simple compatibility, but that something additional, hopefully better, emerges in the form of enhanced or wholly additional flavor notes.

Whiskey hype, American style. Researching whiskey required me to risk a bunch of dollars to gain perspective. So, some time ago, I attended a tasting of rare American whiskey (see photo below). I needed to understand why the Pappy Van Winkle bourbons and Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye were all the rage and selling at such high prices. Why did they cost even more than top of the line, and in some cases 2-3 times more, than relatively rare, superbly crafted Scotch? And now, why were the Van Winkle prices pushing up to cost of other whiskeys in the Buffalo Trace line, particularly the Weller line, said to resemble the Van Winkles in every way but age and space they occupy in the warehouse. While these price surges haven't reached every American whiskey out there, the Van Winkle phenomena has been making an inflationary impact for vast numbers of American whiskeys. The other pressure on price is due to the craft whiskey movement--the topic of a future blog post.

To a large degree, rarity is the operative word with respect to Van Winkle. Whenever you age whiskey or whisky, it means setting the barrels aside and using space for many years. How much of a warehouse can you afford to occupy? Because you need to move merchandise to make any money, aging means deferred profits. Therefore, the distilleries may only put aside a limited number of barrels for long aging (18 or more years). And make no mistake, the supply of Van Winkles is shrinking. But even the Weller line is experiencing a scarcity, whether real or manufactured.

But we would hope that price also reflects quality, not just scarcity, and that aging adds up to a better tasting, richer whiskey. Here's the thing, though, if you're aging in a single barrel, there comes a time when you max out the flavor from the wood. This is why after a certain number of years, the master distillers or malt masters in Scotland, particularly in recent history, do sequential maturing, first for a number of years in oak or ex-American bourbon casks, then another number of years in an ex-sherry casks, then sometimes finishing in still other cask that may have contained port or wines. There may be any number of casks used and any combination, as long as it suits the master distiller. The aging process is a huge part of a malt master's art and the pay off is exquisitely, flavor-orchestrated whiskies. If you were to taste a 12 year old Dalmore or Macallan, then taste one in excess of 20 years, you would see immediately what I mean by increasing complexity. Until recently, that kind of finishing or complexity in aging wasn't really part of American whiskey production.That is changing, however.

For me the 23 year old Pappy Van Winkle is not richer, but thinner, more straight oak than the 12 year or 15 year. A 12 year old Scotch is considered an entry level whisky, but we might consider a bourbon or any other American whiskey, that has not been finished in subsequent flavor casks a product of diminishing returns at some point. Maxed out, past its prime. I'm not saying that the Pappys aren't good. They're very good. But my opinion is that the two-thirds of price is about rarity for the oldest expressions and scarcity, whether real or manufactured, for the younger ones. Therefore, learn to discern flavor and quality. Don't just follow the pack or the buzz. Educate your palate and trust your own perceptions. Then you will never become a victim of hype.








​


Picture
Picture
0 Comments

To Pair or Not to Pair, Part Two

1/18/2017

0 Comments

 
Disclaimer: If you are unable to take a few sips of alcohol and stop, these postings on To Pair or Not to Pair are probably not for you. If there's a family or personal history of alcoholism or alcohol abuse, or if you take medications or have other health conditions that make alcohol consumption unsafe, these postings are probably not for you. Please check back for postings solely about chocolate. Your readership is much appreciated. 


​My forthcoming book–The Deep Tasting Guide To Pairing Chocolate and Spirits (Ritual Communications, Spring/Summer 2017) is about savoring, not overindulging in chocolate, and not drinking to the point of intoxication. I will present a way of thinking about matching chocolate with Scotch whisky and other whiskeys, including American bourbon, rye, and craft whiskeys. While I promise to provide many superb matches of fine chocolates and whiskies, or whiskeys, my ultimate goal is to give you the tools to go about discovering good matches for yourself...without going broke in the process. As in the first Deep Tasting Guide™ (Deep Tasting: A Chocolate Lover's Guide to Meditation), the object is to empower you in fine-tuning your ability to perceive and appreciate flavor.  In a moment, I'll discuss how to get started finding whiskies, or whiskeys, that may appeal to you. But first, let me define some terms.

You may have noticed that I spell "whisky" and "whiskey" two different ways. In Scotland and Canada, "whisky" is the preferred spelling. You may find a preference for that same orthography in Japan and other nations, for historical reasons. In the United States and Ireland "whiskey" has been the customary spelling (with some exceptions). The term "scotch" can only be used legally to describe whisky made in Scotland. The term "bourbon" can only be used legally to describe a whiskey that is made in the United States; it must be at least 51% corn-based and aged in new, charred, oak barrels. If the label says "Kentucky Straight," that means it must be entirely made in Kentucky. A "Tennessee Straight" whiskey means it was made entirely in Tennessee and put through a unique charcoal-filtered process. The term "rye" is not restricted to country of origin, but is assumed to be at least 51% rye-based. The term "expression" is applied to the various products made by the same label; for example, Macallan 12 year, Macallan 18 year, or Jura Superstition, Jura Brooklyn, Johnny Walker Black, Johnny Walker Blue. A whisky is "expressed" through all the complex ways it is crafted, including its ingredients, strength, and the critical aging and finishing processes. Once the whiskey or whisky has been distilled, it must be aged (unless marketed as legal "moonshine" or "white dog.") Aging, typically, takes place for a minimally required number of years, or longer, in American or European or Japanese oak, American ex-bourbon 
barrels or sherry, rum or cognac casks, or any combination of casks. "Finishing" is a short-term process, often six months, in a cask with residual fortified wine, or other flavorings remaining in the emptied casks. 


I hinted that whisky can be expensive. For example, if you look at a shelf of fine scotch at a  good liquor store, you may find items produced by the same distiller ranging from approximately $60 dollars to, perhaps, $1200 or much more per bottle. We can exclude, for our purposes, the extremely rare, auction-worthy expressions that have gone for tens of thousands, and occasionally into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. (It is worth noting that scotch is appreciating faster than investment-quality wine.) But even the popular-selling, non-investment varieties of scotch can be so theft-worthy that many stores keep the bottles behind locked glass panels. This is true whether we are talking about single malts or blended scotch. And limited or rare editions push up the price still more. In terms of American whiskey, bourbon and rye may start as low as $20, but the higher-end products (longer-aged, "finished," and the craft whiskeys) can go for significantly more. Although they are rapidly appreciating in price, seldom, with rare exceptions, are they as expensive as scotch or Japanese whisky. If you were to go into a liquor store and blindly select a whisk(e)y, only to go home and discover that you didn't like it, that would be a waste of your hard-earned money.  So what's a sensible way to go about this process? 

If you are not an experienced whiskey-drinker (and I wasn't, either!) you will need a roadmap to navigate the thousands of whisk(e)ys in the marketplace today. When I first thought about my new book, I wanted to write about chocolate and "spirits," including rum, which is so compatible with chocolate, and other spirits. But I soon realized that topic is so vast that I had to limit the scope of this second book in the Deep Tasting Guide™ series to just scotch, whisky, whiskey, bourbon, and rye. Then, too, there are thousands of chocolates out there. How do you discover ones that are pleasing to you? How do you find spirits-compatible chocolate?  It involves a similar process through understanding and being able to fully experience flavor. (You may find it helpful to read the first book in the Deep Tasting Guide ™ series: Deep Tasting: A Chocolate Lover's Guide to Meditation.) But for now, let's focus on how to begin searching for broad types or "styles" of whisk(e)ys that you may prefer, ones you may wish to enjoy by themselves or match to chocolates later on. And how can you research spirits without needing to take out a second mortgage?

Here's a simple and economical way to begin. Start with "airplane" cart- sized, 50ml bottles. They can be found in most liquor stores. These are usually priced under $6. plus tax. (The taxes on alcohol purchases always give me sticker-shock!) Or you can order a "neat" drink (straight up, no ice) at a good local bar, although ordering a drink in a bar will cost you significantly more. While you will find a greater range of labels and expressions in an upscale bar, it's easier to take a 50ml bottle home, unless you're like me and have the audacity to carry a flask into the bar, take a few sips of a fine whisky, and pour the rest into the flask as take-out. But back to the 50ml bottles. You can find a surprising variety types of scotch and whiskey of styles in those tiny bottles, if you're willing to search for them 

Because blended scotch is about 90% of the market, you will find those mostly readily, rather than single malts. (Although, I have seen some Macallan 12 year recently.) However, blended scotches can be sufficient to give you a hint in the right direction of your taste inclination. Let me say one thing before we go any further: There's no reason to be a single malt scotch snob.What's the difference between a single malt and a blended scotch anyway? A single malt means it is produced by single distillery. The bottled result may come from as little as one single cask and vintage or be "married"(notice, I don't use the word "blended" here  to avoid confusion) from barrels of whisky of various ages. The key point is the bottled whisky all comes from the same distiller. A blended scotch, however, means that whiskies may come from several distilleries, be blended, then bottled by the non-distilling company whose name is on the label. Great writers on scotch advise us to respect blends. Master blenders are great artists  that create complex and subtle whiskies with harmony and balance, aroma and flavor notes, and textures that can stand up well in a variety of uses, including in cocktails. In fact, blends are becoming trendy again as craft brands. The company Compass Box produces pricey, boutique blends. But let's discuss how you can use the more widely available, popular blends to find your whisky style.

I'm going to paint with broad strokes here, because in the last twenty years, aging and finishing has become increasingly complicated. But generally, whether single malts or blends, scotches exhibit aroma and flavor profiles along a continuum, from peaty or smokey to  more sherried or fruity. Single malts from the islands off the coast of Scotland; for example, Lagavulan from Islay, tend to be peaty or smokey and pick up notes from the sea, while Speyside or Highland single malts, such as Macallan, tend to reflect their aging in sherry or other types of used fortified wine casks. Blended scotch, from Johnny Walker Black Label to Chivas Regal 12 year, whose master blenders source from dozens of distillieries, also produce scotches  on a continuum of smokey to sherried. So if you prefer a Johnny Walker Black Label over a Chivas Regal 12 year, you might prefer a peated whisky. Pick up group of these 50ml bottles of blended scotch, go to the company website or to review sites for more information, and begin to define what your whisky preferences might be. If you prefer the Johnny Walker Black label, then go to your local bar or pub and try various peated whiskies. Similarly, if you prefer the more predominant sherry notes of Chivas, you can try scotches aged in sherry casks.  

Brand-name bourbon is also easy to obtain in 50ml bottles. Bourbon tends to be sweet due to corn being the dominant ingredient, with vanilla and other notes from those charred American oak barrels. While a bourbon must contain at least 51% corn, any number of grain combinations can make up the remaining 49%. Some, using wheat  may be creamier or smoother (for example: Maker's Mark); others, with higher percentages of rye, may be more spicy. Preferring a spicier bourbon may lead you to experiment with rye whiskeys too. Due to the craft distilling movement, bourbons and ryes are becoming sophisticated and more nuanced. Some are now being finished in sherry and other type casks. In fact, there's an ironic, trans-Atlantic twist going on, because distillers of Scotland and Ireland have been using American ex-bourbon barrels for aging for several generations now.   

The first step, then, is to discover what you like. You may find that what you favor will change over time... or not. Scotch or other whisky. Irish or North American. Some people just like bourbon. Some, rye. There's no right or wrong here. Respect your preferences. Learn to be fully present with your whisk(e)y experiences. Drink moderately and responsibly. Savor... and enjoy! 



Coming soon!: To Pair or Not to Pair, Part Three










0 Comments
<<Previous

    Author

    Rev. Dr. R.M. Peluso is an ordained Interfaith minister whose spiritual journey has included meditation and chocolate. She is a writer, chocolate taster/reviewer, a long time contributor to the C-spot.com and, recently, Whisky Magazine (UK) and American Whiskey Magazine. Dr. Peluso is the author of Deep Tasting: A Chocolate Lover's Guide to Meditation and Deep Tasting Chocolate & Whiskey.

    Archives

    January 2019
    December 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    May 2018
    March 2018
    December 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    October 2016
    May 2016

    Categories

    All

    RSS Feed

Proudly powered by Weebly